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Sighting In Fellers, these little formulae will help you get that chunk gun (or any other gun for that matter) on target quicker. You got to do a little math, but it's worth it. I've had this in my shop for many years and figure you guys need to copy it down for yourselves for use later on. 1. Load your gun as you always intend. 2. Fire a group (3-5 minimum) at the distance you plan on shooting and utilizing the sight picture that you prefer. 3. Measure the center of that group to the desired point of impact. (All measurements need to be in INCHES for this to work) 4. Now measure the distance between your front and rear sight. This is your "sight radius" for you scientific types. 5. Multiply your sight radius by the sight correction needed. Then divide this number by the distance to the target. This step will tell you how much correction is needed. EXAMPLES My ol' Hawken, "Crow Killer", was hitting 6" high at 50 yards and 2" to the right of the X, down at our Buck Crik Muzzleloaders range. My sight radius (at that time in my life) was 23 1/2". Elevation 1. Convert the sight radius to decimals and multiply it by that 6 inches of error. This is 23.5 X 6" = 141. 2. Divide this figure by 50 yards converted to inches or 1800". This comes out to .078". 3. Now, either raise your front sight by .078, or lower the rear by this much. Windage 1. Multiply 2" X 23.5" = 47". 2. Divide this by that 1800" = .261" or rounded down to .26". 3. Now move your front sight to the RIGHT .26 inches or your rear sight to the LEFT this much. Over The Log Sight Info If you're considering sights for the first time on an over the log or chunk gun, try this info on for size. The amiable Lowell Gard, a.k.a. Bevel Up, passed this on to me back in November of 2004 as a place to start getting my own chunk gun sighted in. Front sight: 3/32" wide. 1/4" tall. Rear sight: Flat top and as wide as you can get. Use a square notch (depth not that important) .040 wide. (a Dremel disc works great) How they are set up: You need to be able to see a tiny amount of light around the edges of the front sight blade when viewed through the rear sight at the over the log match distance of 60 yards. The top of the front sight blade is level with the top of the rear sight. I use a dark black oblong shape in the center of a green background for my sighter target. The black oblong is oriented so that it is taller than it is wide. The oblong on the sighter target "appears" to be the exact same width as my front sight width when view at 60 yards. The way I use the sight set-up: I simply align my front sight and the black oblong on their sides. Then I level the front and rear sights on the bottom edge of the oblong. That makes me "square to the world" and then am ready to pull the trigger. EASY!
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